THE BALI RESTAURANT GUIDE

ABOUT THIS GUIDE

We try to cover all places serving traditional Balinese food and the best of international cuisine in Bali. If you don't find the name of a restaurant which has been recommended to you by someone, this doesn't mean we don't know about it. We try to visit ALL new restaurants and entertainment spots but only include those which we feel are good and reliable enough to list.

Our PERSONAL FAVOURITES are underlined and listed in RED. They range from cheap eateries to outstanding restaurants which would succeed anywhere in the world.
THE BALI RESTAURANT GUIDE TO SANUR

CAFE BATU JIMBAR, Jalan Danau Tamblingan No. 152, is a casual sidewalk cafe and popular with regular visitors to Sanur and expatriates who meet here for breakfast, lunch or dinner under large trees. You can choose from a number of fresh fruit juices, healthy salads and light dishes; the vegetables and herbs are grown at the owner's farm near Bedugul. In the back of the outdoor restaurant is a good book shop which carries also international newspapers.

The air-conditioned KAFE WAYANG, Komplek Sanur Raya No. 12 - 14 at the By-Pass opposite the Radisson Hotel, has become quite popular during lunch time. Local business people enjoy the relaxing (indoor) tropical garden setting, the creative Asian and Mediterranean cuisine, and the excellent desserts. From 4 p.m. until late you can also choose from a variety of tasty "Tapas". Friday night is Jam Session from 9:00 p.m. – see Bali after Dark.

TELAGA NAGA (operated by the Bali Hyatt hotel in Sanur and located right opposite the hotel on the main road) has a beautiful garden setting with ponds and ducks, bridges, pavilions, and usually well prepared Chinese food. Try the "Smoked Duck". The birds served here are imported from the United States and have – unlike their Asian relatives – a lot of tender meat. I can also recommend the Chicken in Sesame Sauce (in many places known as 'Bon Bon Chicken'), the Hot & Sour Soup, and their Scallops in Black Bean Sauce. Expect to pay hotel prices, i.e. dinner for two around US$50 to US$60 with some beer but without wine.

Also relatively new for Sanur (although established in Seminyak and Kuta for some time already, see reviews below) is the open-air GATEWAY OF INDIA, Jalan Danau Tamblingan a bit South of the Bali Hyatt hotel and on the same side of the road. The Indian food here is delicious and irresistable, and it cannot be compared with any other restaurant in Sanur claiming to serve food from the sub-continent. The setting here is more pleasant than their other two branches, and prices are reasonable. For details please turn to the review of the Seminyak branch further down.

A great place for reasonably priced Thai Food is the MEZZANINE at Puri Santrian in Sanur. The Thai Chef Supachai definitely knows what he is doing, and we really enjoy his Beef Salad, Thom Yam Goong and other dishes. But talk to him personally to place your order and specify how spicy you like it. Expect to pay around 150,000 Rupiah per person without drinks.

The SANUR BEACH MARKET restaurant at the end of Jalan Segara serves from noon to 9:00 or 10.00 p.m. a choice of Indonesian, Chinese and Balinese dishes with an emphasis on seafood. Great location, good food in an unpretentious setting, and reasonable prices. For real local flavor, visit BABI GULING GIANYAR on the By-Pass near the SPLASH BAKERY between 5:00 and 7:00 p.m. This very simple restaurant serves the most delicious "Babi Guling" (roasted suckling pig, a famous specialty of the town of Gianyar) for 4,500 Rupiah per portion. Around 7:00 p.m. they are usually sold out!

Bali's most popular host is back! After having to leave KOKI because of a dispute with the local owner, personable Austrian Olaf Aistleitner and some of his excellent staff can be found nowadays at the air-conditioned ARENA Sports Cafe at Jalan By-Pass No. 115 in Sanur, close to and on the same side as McDonalds. The original small and very basic pub has been redecorated and a separate, more quiet restaurant section, a large bar and a billiard room have been added, and Olaf continues to serve large portions of his excellent home-cooking like "mother used to make it" (wish I had a mother cooking like this). The menu has been expanded to list now about 80 dishes from countries such as Austria, Germany, Switzerland, France, Holland, Norway, Greece, Italy, Yugoslavia, India, Japan and more.

Start your meal with an Italian Octopuss Salad, Japanese Tuna Sashimi, Australian Rock Oysters, Feta Cheese or Smoked Salmon; then continue with Austrian Beef Goulash with Spaetzle, Beef Fillet Forestier with sauted Portabella mushrooms, pepper sauce, cranberry gelee and potato croquettes, Chilli Basil Squidd, Fillet of Swordfish or the delicious Fillet of Silver Dori with lemon butter or Bumbu Bali. Or order some German sausages (Nürnberger, Weisswurst, Wiener, etc), a real Grilled Pork Knuckle (about 1.5 kg) or Pork Kidneys in a delicious creme sauce, followed by some unforgettable desserts such as Apple Strudle, Creme Caramel, Tiramisu, Ice Cream Napoli etc.

Whatever you order, there will never be a reason to complain. Regular guests are mostly expatriates including many Chefs of Bali's leading hotels. Prices are very reasonable ranging from about 25,000 Rupiah to 96,000 Rupiah (for a huge fillet steak weighing 400 grams). Beer (Bintang, Foster, Corona and a number of German and Belgian beers), all kinds of spirits, cocktails and a growing choice of wines from Australia, Europe and Chile are also reasonably priced. See you there!

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THE BALI RESTAURANT GUIDE TO KUTA
(incl. Tuban, Legian, Seminyak, Kerobokan, etc)

The largest number and variety of restaurants is located in this area stretching over about 4 to 6 miles from the airport to Basangkasa further North, and the following list covers just a few of my personal favorites:-

KETUPAT, Jalan Legian Raya 109 in Kuta, serves a great variety of specialties in very pleasant surroundings. The menu includes traditional Balinese food and dishes from all parts of the archipelago. You find different soups, chicken, beef, duck, lamb, seafood and vegetarian delicacies from Bali, Sumatra, Jawa, Sulawesi, Maluku, and other parts of Indonesia. In addition to the usual pork, beef, and chicken 'Sate' you find here barbecued skewers with goat meat, prawns, tuna, squid, and even 'Sate Lilit' with minced crab or duck meat. Seafood lovers can choose from different preparations of lobster, crabs, prawns, calamari and all kinds of fresh fish. Vegetarians will enjoy salads and tasty main courses with beans, potatoes, spinach, bean sprouts, young fern leaves, etc. The menu features photographs and explanations of each dish. Expect to pay about 80,000 to 120,000 Rupiah per person which is not cheap for Bali. But don't forget, this is real Indonesian 'haute cuisine' (which you normally only can find in some private homes but never in restaurants), well presented, and served in surroundings which will please most visitors.

MADE'S WARUNG on Jalan Pantai in central Kuta near the Bemo Corner has been an institution in Kuta since the early 70's. This has been THE place to see and be seen for nearly 30 years. In the early days, MADE'S was the only 'after-hours' place in Kuta. They kept selling toilet paper, mosquito curls, snack food and drinks until 8:00 p.m. in the evening when everybody else closed around 7:00 p.m. The owners Peter and Made opened in August 1996 a new, quite similar but larger and more comfortable MADE'S WARUNG in Basangkasa on the way to the Oberoi Hotel (see below).

Hidden away a few meters down the narrow lane next to the original MADE'S WARUNG is UN'S PARADISE RESTAURANT. In a pleasant garden setting you can enjoy well-prepared Swiss and Italian specialties such as Carpaccio, Gnocchi, Ravioli, tender imported steaks, fish, prawns, and a few vegetarian dishes. Our favourites are the pepper steak and the entrecote – both served with delicious sauces – and the seared tuna in dill sauce! Main courses range from 60,000 to 100,000 Rupiah. There is a small choice of wines, many liqueurs and cocktails, special coffees and teas, and even Balinese Arak and Brem. A live band entertains diners, and many guests at the horse shoe bar come just for a chat with the Swiss owner Peter Erni.

Really close by and near the Bemo Corner on Jalan Pantai Kuta No. 11B (across Jalan Legian to the North) is a branch of GATEWAY OF INDIA which serves delicious Indian food in very simple surroundings at acceptable prices (for details read the review of the Seminyak branch further down).

POPPIES restaurant on Poppies Gang (lane) nearby has also been well-established for over 25 years. In a beautiful garden setting you can choose from a number of Asian and Western dishes including, soups, curries, lobster and steaks. It's very pleasant for a leisurely lunch in the shade of large trees, but in the evenings the place tends to become crowded with tourist groups. The food was never outstanding, and recently the prices have been increased considerably.

TJ'S Mexican Restaurant, also on Poppies Gang, has become an institution over the years and is well-known for tasty food, good music, excellent margaritas and strawberry daiquiris, and to meet regulars around the far corner of the long bar. Pleasant garden setting, good service, great salads.

KORI Restaurant & Bar, hidden away in nearby Poppies II Lane, offers comfortable open-air seating in pleasant surroundings (tropical garden with several ponds, nice decoration and atmosphere). Service is attentive, and the menu lists specialties from many countries such as Indonesian Satays, Thai beef salad, Thom Yam, and Green Chicken Curry, Singapore Chilli Crab, Australian beef steaks, tuna steaks, beef burgers, pork chops, Caesar salad, and Italian pasta. There is a good choice of desserts (from Balinese Black Rice Pudding to Bavarian Vanilla Cheese Cake), and they have several kinds of delicious home-baked breads with a crunchy crust. Good food, nice presentation, large portions and a good, reasonably priced wine list. (KORI is also home of the Bali Wine Club, a group of 24 expat businessmen who meet here on the last Friday of each month for lunch and to enjoy selected wines.) They offer to park your car a few hundred meters away as you cannot leave it in the narrow, often congested lane.

POCO LOCO, Jalan Padma Utara in Legian, has two sometimes busy bars on different levels and offers a choice of Mexican dishes, good salmon steaks and other grill items, a delicious but very heavy "Muddy Mud Pie". Tequila shooters are served by the walking "Mini-Bar", and there is good music and a lively atmosphere. The restaurant is open daily for dinner from 6 p.m. until about midnight. The "in-crowd" arrives after 9 p.m.

The small air-conditioned sushi bar RYOSHI, Jalan Raya Seminyak 17 (with branches in Jalan Melasti in Kuta as well as in Sanur and Ubud) serves Sashimi, Sushi, Tempura, Miso soup, and other Japanese dishes at low prices. It's interior is simple but comfortable, and the restaurant is often crowded during meal times. The larger TAKE, Jalan Patih Jelantik (the small road between Kuta and Jalan Imam Bonjol) with a second branch in Jalan Padma, offers a wider choice of well-prepared specialties from various areas of Japan. For good Sashimi or Teppanyaki, Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki prepared at your table visit either the KURUMAYA at the Bali Padma Hotel in Legian (Tuesday nights "All You Can Eat"), or the smaller but more elegant TEPPANYAKI restaurant at the Japanese managed Bali Imperial Hotel in Seminyak.

KUNI's Japanese Restaurant is located at Jalan Laksmana No. 80. When you enter this modern open-air restaurant through the lounge you pass the bar and a small sushi counter. Dining tables are well-spaced with most of them on the open terrace and some tables in the narrow garden with Frangipani trees and Hibiscus. Choose from small but beautifully presented servings of Sashimi, delicious Spicy Tuna Rolls (a new experience even for Japanese), Beef Shabu Shabu Salad, Tempura, fried Kushiyaki skewers with chicken, chicken liver, sliced ox tongue etc, grilled sardines or swordfish, or Sukiyaki from Australian beef. There is also a choice of noodle and rice dishes including Unadon (with grilled eel). The set dinner for 90,000 Rupiah ++ per person (minimum three guests) with 10 courses is especially good value. All dishes are well-prepared and presented, and the service from the Japanese manager and the local staff is attentive, very friendly and professional. Green tea, Japanese beer and sake are offered as expected, but there is also a small choice of wines from Australia and Chile. Monday closed.

The Japanese BLUEFIN Restaurant in Jalan Kartika Plaza opposite the KUTA PARADISO hotel serves excellent fusion cuisine in modern surroundings. The large menu lists many creative and delicious sushi rolls, foie gras and all traditional Japanese dishes. Specialties include Chilli Ayo, a combination of baked scallops, shrimps and squid topped with a chilli mayonaise and fish roe, Dobin Mushi, a clear mushroom-seafood soup, and there are Sushi Rolls filled with cab salad, eel, shrimps, squid, salmon, tuna, lobster, avocado, cucumber and even liver pate and cream cheese! Main courses include steak, seafood combination plates, lobster etc. In addition to Western deserts there are Red Bean and Green Tea Ice Creams. The wine list is small but acceptable, seating is equally comfortable at the few tables or at the Sushi bar, and the service is attentive. BLUEFIN has immediately become one of our regular places. (Other Japanese restaurants to check are INAGIKU located in its own Japanese style building in the garden of the Grand Hyatt Resort in Nusa Dua or the cozy Japanese restaurant at the Bali Cliff Resort.)

The "new" (opened in 1996) MADE'S WARUNG in Basangkasa on the way to the Oberoi Hotel offers a wide choice of dishes (on the menu and on notes on the walls) from many parts of the world: local "Nasi Campur" (a mini rijsttafel) and Gado Gado, Japanese Sashimi, their own version of a Thai "Tom Yam" soup, good prawn and squid dishes, pasta, acceptable steaks, etc), plus a variety of cakes, delicious home-made coconut ice-cream, fresh fruit juices and good Capuchino (served either hot or iced). Try the "Arak Madu" or "Arak Lemon di Blender" (the local rice liquor with either just honey, or with honey and lemon, prepared in a blender). They offer also a choice of imported wines at reasonable prices. From morning to late night you'll see many regulars who've been coming to Bali since Peter (the Dutch owner) and his Balinese wife Made started their first "Warung" in the center of Kuta in the early 70's. Have a look at the various shops adjacent to the restaurant, too.

Thai food is served in the air-conditioned KIN KHAO Thai Restaurant, Jalan Raya Seminyak. However, their "Thom Yam Gung", Fried Fish Cakes, Green Papaya Salad, Spring Rolls, a Green Chicken Curry, and "Hormok" (steamed mixed seafood) are recently lacking the spiciness and character of real Thai food – although you can specify when ordering how you'd like your food. Most dishes are 30,000 to 60,000 Rupiah. The same owners operate the larger, more luxurious branch in Jalan Kartika Plaza. The food there is equally "touristy", and the prices are about 50% higher than in Seminyak

The GOLDEN LOTUS inside the Bali Dynasty Resort in Tuban is well-known for a wide range of good Chinese dishes and 'Dim Sum' (during lunch on Sundays) which are served in comfortable hotel surroundings. The unpretentious but air-conditioned B.M.J. (Bak Mie Jakarta) restaurant, Jalan Raya Kuta No. 22 on the main road between Kuta and the airport, does serve a tasty version of the fried noodles (Bakmie) which it was named after, but I used to enjoy also their 'Dim Sum' (also called 'Yum Cha') -- a variety of small dumplings, steamed buns and other mini delights served in rattan baskets. Inside the baskets you find steamed dumplings filled with prawns and pork ('Siu Mai' and 'Har Gau'), or shark fin ('Yu Chi Gau'), crisp-fried rolls with prawns, and 'Char Siu Bau', rather filling barbecued pork buns. The prawns and other ingredients were always fresh, and the prices are about Rupiah 8,000 per basket (a fraction of what you would pay in Hong Kong or Taipei). Recently, however, the portions have become smaller, and the quality has gone down, too.

Other recommendable and more comfortable Chinese restaurants in the Kuta/Tuban area are PLAZA BALI located between the By-Pass and Jalan Raya Kuta and EMA Restaurant, upper floor at the DFS (Duty Free Shoppers) complex at the circle on Jalan By-Pass. Both serve tasty food including Dim Sum. EMA has even an English language Dim Sum menu with photos and it is a favourite of many expat residents for Sunday lunch.

The very popular LA LUCCIOLA (with a truly outstanding beach front setting next to the Petitenget temple and great views of Kuta's famous sunsets) serves a range of modern Italian specialties. Food and service have improved recently, and for dinner you'll need a reservation. Recommended for at least a "sundowner".

The long-time famous GADO GADO (at the end of Jalan Dhyana Pura) features a similar beach front location and has changed from a Disco to a restaurant again (that's how this legendary place started over 30 years ago). The setting is pleasant and the service attentive. The new menu is quite similar to the old menu at KU DE TA featuring freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters, saffran seared scallops, a sushi sashimi platter, soft shell crab on soba noodles, grilled river prawns, atlantic salmon fillet, lobster tempura, duck breast, rack of lamb, beef tenderloin, etc. as well as some vegetarian dishes which are all well prepared and presented. There are a number of desserts such as Mango Mousse, Creme Brullee or Mocca Panna Cotta. The wine list is impressive for Bali standards and starts at around 190,000 Rupiah. GADO GADO has become serious competition for other up-market restaurants in the Seminyak area. Call 736-966 to reserve a beachfront table.

Another popular eatery with an outstanding beach front location is ZANZIBAR, Jalan Pantai Arjuna – turn left at the end of Jalan Double Six. The menu lists a good choice of Western and local dishes, seafood specialties and many kinds of tasty pizza. All dishes are well prepared, prices are very reasonable (many dishes are around 30,000 Rupiah, wines start around 160,000 Rupiah), and it's often difficult to find a table on the open terrace.

In the center of Seminyak, nearly opposite Double-Six-Road at Jalan Legian 494, you'll find on the third floor TERAS or LA TERRAZZA, an Italian-run roof-top restaurant with a long bar, good drinks, sometimes too loud music, and a large, airy terrace. The friendly staff serve many (thin-crust) pizzas for 40,00 to 65,000 Rupiah.

Located about 100 meters further north is PANTEREI, a beautiful modern restaurant serving Greek specialties in comfortable surroundings. Panos Bournias, the Greek founder, has recently opened the new NERO Bali Restaurant & Bar at Jalan Legian 384 right opposite AROMAS in Kuta. NERO's design is very stylish and simplistic with modern furniture, huge mirrors, hanging plants and water features, candles and well-placed spot lights. You find on the menu appetizers such as tuna carpaccio, Thai beef salad, and a Mezze platter, and for main courses Lemon Chicken, lamb chops, cooked (not char-grilled) steaks, Middle Eastern Kebabs, and a number of seafood preparations. Imported wines start at 150,000 Rupiah, and you'll pay for a dinner for two about 100,000 to 150,000 Rupiah without drinks. They serve food until 1:30 in the morning, and the street-side bar attracts walk-in guests during the whole evening.

LA PORCHETTA Italian Grill & Seafood Restaurant is a pleasant open-air eatery on Jalan Legian near Jalan Melasti and very close to "Peanuts Disco". Australians who know these restaurants from Melbourne will love it. Nice informal style, friendly service, tasty, reasonably priced food (pasta, pizza, steaks, fish, and lobster from 30,000 to 120,000 Rupiah), but the wines are on the expensive side at 300,000 Rupiah per bottle for table wines and 580,000 Rupiah for Sparkling Wine. After 1:00 a.m. they serve only pizza, but the restaurant stays open 24 hours.

KAFE WARISAN, Jalan Raya Kerobokan, about one or two kilometers further north from Seminyak/Basangkasa, is run by the enthusiastic French chefs Said Alem and Nicolas Tourneville ("Doudou") who used to work as Chef for French Ambassadors in Indonesia and Algeria. This pleasant and trendy open-air restaurant shows attention to all details and an interesting and frequently changing menu (including a good number of vegetarian dishes). Entrees include Salmon & Tuna Tartar, Escargots served in Roasted Mushrooms, and there is even a home-made Foie Gras. You can continue with a Oriental Lamb Soup, followed by one of the pasta dishes or Duck Confit with Puy Lentils, Roasted Rack of Lamb with Baby Beans and Artichokes, Half-Grilled Baby Chicken, or Pan-fried Veal Medallions. For seafood lovers there are Grilled Tasmanian Salmon with Mushroom Fricassee, Prawn and Butterfish Meli Melo, or a Scallops and Mushroom Fricassee with Creamy Spinach and Saffron Veloute. To finish your meal you can choose either Créme Bruleé, Chocolate Mousse with Poached Pear, or Frozen Almond Souffleé. On the drink list you find a number of drinkable French wines from 190,000 to 450,000 Rupiah, a good choice of cocktails, five different kinds of tea, Espresso, Capuchino, and Bali Coffee. Service is attentive, and prices are very reasonable (a three-course dinner for two will cost you about 400,000 to 500,000 Rupiah – and more if you add a bottle of wine). The "new" KAFE WARISAN has definitely been a very welcome addition to Bali's restaurant scene, and it seems to become better and more popular every month! Don't go without a reservation (tel. 731-175).

THE LIVING ROOM is located at Jalan Petitenget between the Petitenget temple and the Intan Beach Village hotel. This pleasant open-air restaurant with tables in the candle-lit garden has a distinctive colonial atmosphere with terracotta floors, high ceilings, paintings, antique marble tables and carved chairs. The menu lists quite well prepared and presented "modern Asian" creations influenced by Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, etc. Appetizers and main courses are priced between 35,000 and 99,000 Rupiah plus 15% which is not cheap. There is a good selection of wines from Australia, France and Italy starting around 190,000 Rupiah per bottle. Owner Daniel Vannequé runs also the "SuKHa Gallery" offering folk art, antiques, and furniture.

KU DE TA is currently Bali's most trendy restaurant in a top beach front location next to the Oberoi Hotel. The modern architecture and interior design of the bar and dining areas go well with the "fusion cuisine" of the Australian chef. On the menu you find a selection of freshly shucked oysters imported two times per week from Australia and France and served with a champagne vinaigrette. There are many salads, grilled Australian yabbies (small freshwater crayfish), seared scallops, a seafood stew, lamb rib eye, venison rib and beef tenderloin. The interesting wine list features many wines from Australia, California, Chile, France, Italy, New Zealand and South Africa and starts around 190,000 Rupiah per bottle. Sparling wines by the glass are 60,000 Rupiah to 160,000 Rupiah, and bottles range from 290,000 Rupiah for VALDIVIESCO Brut from Chile to 1,990,000 Rupiah for a bottle of KRUG Brut Grande Cuvee. The service staff is well-trained and attentive, and prices are generally reasonable. There are comfortable deck chairs right on the beach to watch Bali's famous sunsets, and you can choose from nearly 30 Cuban cigars such as BOLIVAR Coronas Junior, COHIBA Coronas Especiales, H. UPMANN Connoisseur No. 1, HOYO DE MONTERREY Sort Hoyo Coronas, MONTECRISTO Especial No. 2, PUNCH Punch Punch, or ROMEO YULIETA Exhibition No. 4 from about 90,000 Rupiah to 400,000 Rupiah.

Even more pleasant (in our opinion) is the small THE BREEZE restaurant of the THE SAMAYA villa resort near KU DE TA and next to LA LUCCIOLA. The relaxed beach front setting, great sunset views, the sound of the waves and good service make this one of Bali's most romantic places for fine dining. German Food & Beverage Director Torsten Schubert used to work at the "Petersberg" when Bonn was still Germany's capital and cooked for many heads of state, and he is most of the time either in the restaurant or in the kitchen and always happy to receive special requests. The menu includes a delicious pan-seared Foie Gras with sweetbread-asparagus ravioli in a morel cream sauce, Tequila-cured salmon tartar with green pea cakes, a lobster bisque with a smoked goat cheese spring roll and a tomato tortilla soup. The "Duck Tasting" consists of duck prepared three different ways (US duck breast on pumpkin gnoccis in a cola-soda-chilli sauce, stuffed duck neck on vegatable tabbouleh salad with red-onion jam and a smoked duck and mushroom ragout in a thin crispy dough basket sitting on corn and roasted peppers), or choose the roasted quail with baked ratatouille tacos, the Angus beef tenderloin with spicy black grape marmelade and horseradish potatoes or the roasted lambloin with crispy potato crust with wild forest mushrooms and yellow pepper juice. For seafood lovers there is pepper crusted tuna fillet with spicy mango glaze & a delicious salsa cilantro-risotto cake, Alaskan black cod with charred jalapeno-basil vinaigrette and pan-fried "yam" mash, mahi-mahi fillet with pineapple-red onion relish or curry glazed jumbo prawns with apple-vanilla chutney and a portabella-risotto cake. For the small appetite or during the afternoon or late evening there are a number of "Tapas" to choose from including marinated mushrooms with balsamic vinegar, Feta cheese with pesto, marinated artichokes, stuffed vine leaves with a garlic-yoghurt dip, smoked duck breast & mushrooms in a taco shell, turmeric shrimp vol-au-vents, etc. The quite extensive, reasonably priced wine list starts at less than 120,000 Rupiah for a bottle of local wine and 280,000 Rupiah for imported wines. An outstanding dinner for two costs about 700,000 or 800,000 Rupiah (without wine) which is MUCH less than you would pay for this quality of food served in comparable surroundings in other parts of the world. Don't miss it (telephone 731-149 for reservations) !

Another recommendable eatery – although in a totally different class – in the same area is MYKONOS TAVERNA, a simple Greek tavern in Jalan Laksmana No. 52 (Jalan Oberoi) with another outlet in the same road and more branches in Sanur and even in Jakarta. Simple but very tasty Greek specialties such as a Patzaria Salad (beetroot in garlic, vinegar and olive oil), tender Calamari Skaras (grilled and soaked in lemon, olive oil, dill and oregano, served with warm potato salad), delicious Silotakia Tiganita (chicken liver with onions, garlic, mushrooms, chilli, oregano and olive oil), Keftes (meatballs with various sauces), Mousaka (oven-baked layers of potato, ground beef and aubergines), lamb chops and various Kebabs are served with vegetables and potatoes at prices between 15,000 Rupiah and 55,000 Rupiah! Portions are huge, and the (limited) choice of wines is priced from 140,000 Rupiah to 280,000 Rupiah per bottle. Great value for money, great tavern atmosphere with Greek music, friendly, very informal service (similar to places like this in Greece), and crowded every night. Call 733-253 for reservations.

TRATTORIA Cucina Italiano is another simple open-air restaurant located in Jalan Oberoi and serving excellent home-cooking at very reasonable prices. Choose from the daily changing antipasti, salads, home-made pasta, tasty main courses and sweets, all priced between 15,000 Rupiah and 59,000 Rupiah. A limited wine list with still acceptable prices, friendly service and the relaxed atmosphere have made the TRATTORIA very popular with the international and Italian crowd who often bring the whole family. Around 10 p.m. all tables are usually occupied (not open for lunch, and currently no credit cards accepted).

Good news for lovers of Indian food: finally there are some restaurants in Bali where you can enjoy the real thing. GATEWAY OF INDIA in Seminyak, Jalan Dyana Pura (Gado Gado) No. 10, is located nearly opposite of SANTA FEE. They offer an excellent choice of Indian specialties which will NOT disappoint you. Regrettably there is no air-conditioning, and sometimes you have to listen to very loud music from nearby bars and pubs, but the food here is GOOD! Our favourites are Masala Papadum, Seekh Kebab, Gosht Shahi Korma, Mutton Pasanda, Murgh Makhani (Butter Chicken) and Butter Chicken Tikka, yellow and black Dhal, Aloo Gobi, Navratan Korma, Raita, Garlic Naan, Cheese Naan and the delicious Peshawari Naan. A feast for four or six is about 300,000 to 400,000 Rupiah (most dishes are 30,000 to 40,000 Rupiah). (Bring your own wine, as the wines offered are not exciting at all and never properly chilled.) Newer branches are near the Bemo corner in Kuta and on Jalan Danau Tamblingan in Sanur.

The QUEEN'S TANDOOR, Jalan Seminyak 73 opposite MADE'S WARUNG, serves now the same delicious Indian specialties in Bali for which it is famous in Jakarta since 1986. Enjoy the mouth-watering delicacies from the tandoor oven or the slowly cooked chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable Curries, Masallas and Kormas with rich sauces full of fresh herbs, spices, fruits and nuts. There are freshly baked breads such as various Nans, Papadums and Chappati to accompany your meal, and Kulfi, the Indian ice cream, is the best way to finish it.

For German specialties and sausages you can try the open-air MAMA'S restaurant in Kuta which is open around the clock and serves substantial German homecooking at low prices. The wide choice includes hot dogs and many other sausages, Frikadellen (German meat balls) and burgers, spit-roasted chicken, pork roast, Rouladen (German beef rolls), and huge pork knuckles. In addition to local draft beer, imported beers and German schnaps there is also a limited but well-priced wine list. There are tables and a bar downstairs as well as on the upper floor where you also find a large billiards table and life music in the evening. Owner is the German Honorary Consul Reinhold Jantzen. (You like dining with Consuls? Then you should also visit the Swiss Consular Representative Jon Zurcher who entertains guests in his SWISS RESTAURANT at the new Istana Galleria in Kuta.)

Quite good Swiss-German meals at low prices are also served in plain surroundings in the PEPITO KAFE, Jalan Kediri 36A, next to the Pepito Supermarket in Tuban. Roger Jahn, a retired Swiss Guard of the Pope, offers a "Bavarian Breakfast" with Weisswurst, Brezn and a beer at any time of the day for 32,500 Rupiah, a choice of smoked and dried hams with melon, asparagus and toast (32,000 Rupiah), sliced pork leg "Castellan Style" (44,000 Rupiah), various steaks (39,000 to 64,000 Rupiah), and a number of Swiss and German sausages with onion sauce or gravy, French fries and salad for about 30,000 to 38,000 Rupiah. His nice Vol-au-vent (which he calls "Bouchees Royale"), two pastry shells filled with tender beef cubes in a creamy white sauce, is just 29,500 Rupiah, and a bottle of imported "Erdinger Weissbier" is 42,000 Rupiah. There is only a limited selection of wines, but give it a try — you might become a regular! Jahn's latest promotion is a set lunch menu including appetizer, main course and desert for 27,500 Rupiah !!!

If you like elegant surroundings in a top beach front setting and attentive service, there is no better choice than the new air-conditioned SAILFIN Seafood Restaurant, part of the THE WAVE entertainment complex at Jalan Pantai No. 1 in Kuta (opposite the Hard Rock Resort). After a drink in the spacious and comfortable lounge area with bar you can choose either a table inside or on the open terrace. Right now, prices are reasonable for both food and beverages but will probably increase after the intoductory period. On our first visit we loved the Coquilles Saint Jaques (delicious scallops), king prawns, baramundi fillet and Lobster Mornay, all well-prepared by the Australian chef. On the second visit we were disappointed by the "Sailfin Paradise Seafood Platter for Two" which consisted of a few prawns, squid, one small bug (or rock lobster), one not so fresh crab, and lots of local fruit. Most of the wines on the limited wine list were out of stock. Expect to pay around 300,000 to 450,000 Rupiah for two, not including drinks.

There are also several restaurants (INDAH SARI, MINI, SC, etc) along Jalan Legian in Kuta which display on the roadside fresh fish, lobster, crabs and prawns on ice. You select your favorites from the display and tell the staff how to prepare your dish (grilled, steamed, boiled etc). The BALI SEAFOOD MARKET and KUTA SEAFOOD on Jalan Kartika Plaza between Kuta and the airport offer a wide choice of fresh seafood and live entertainment including Balinese dances.

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THE BALI RESTAURANT GUIDE TO JIMBARAN BEACH

The best place for fresh seafood is still Jimbaran Beach with its rows of open restaurants right on the sandy beach near the Bali Inter-Continental Resort and between the Keraton Hotel and the airport. The number of eateries is fast increasing, but the original six restaurants on the airport side of the Keraton Hotel (LIA is our favorite) are still the most reasonably priced, and they serve the same delicious food. All kinds of fresh fish, squid, crabs, prawns, and lobsters are prepared on the open grill (burning coconut husks instead of charcoal) with exotic herbs and spices.

A large grilled snapper with vegetable, salad, rice, potatoes, several sauces, and different sambals costs for instance at LIA's around 40,000 Rupiah per kilo; one kilo of grilled prawns is about 90,000 Rupiah, lobster (actually crayfish) 150,000 Rupiah per kilo, and a large bottle of beer is 12,500 Rupiah. Not extremely cheap any more but still good value for money, and a great place to watch Bali's famous sunset!

However, be warned: the 25 or so restaurants between Inter-Continental and the Four Seasons resort charge much higher prices (they pay 30% and even 40% commission to drivers and guides), and their prices for wine are rediculous! Visitors to the restaurants closer to the fishing harbor (near the airport) AND the restaurants between the Inter-Continental and the Four Seasons often complain on the "BALI travel FORUM" about being overcharged and/or cheated on the weight of the fish or lobster they ordered.

Forum contributor Dell wrote on July 19th, 1999, after a visit to the often recommended Cafe Intan: "I suspect they all have rigged scales. To walk to the surf after dusk, then turn around and let your gaze scan the hundreds of flickering table candles which stretch far into the distance and contemplate the scale of the fraud that is being perpetuated every night is a humbling experience." (Just an idea: if you take a full bottle of water it's easy to test the scales.)

For fine (but rather pricey) dining the Bali Inter-Continental Resort is hard to beat – the KO Japanese Restaurant with its elegant teppanyaki room, sushi & sashimi bar and music lounge is one of the best in Bali, and the SINGARAJA garden restaurant is well-known for good food and excellent service. The Ritz-Carlton's PADI garden restaurant (just a few steps down from the lobby) advertises to serve the island's best and most authentic Thai cuisine. But even if you let your waiter or the Chef know you like your food as spicy as in Bangkok, you will be served in most cases a rather "touristy" version of Thai food.

For a very pleasant lunch you should try the delicious pizzas, salads and outstanding desserts at the Four Seasons Resort's PJ's (Pantai Jimbaran) set right on the beach. You can also reserve a table here for a very private and romantic dinner lighted by dozens of candles and just a few feet away from the water. Food, service and prices are what you'd expect at a Four Seasons.

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THE BALI RESTAURANT GUIDE TO THE BUKIT, NUSA DUA & TANJUNG BENOA

The "Bukit", the hill south of Jimbaran Bay, is becoming more popular every day. An increasing number of residential buildings take advantage of the spectacular views of Kuta, Sanur and the mountains from the slope facing north, and there are also quite a number projects being developed on the steep cliffs facing the South. It's not surprising that new restaurants are attracted by the new neighbourhood, too.

Excellent Thai cuisine is served at THE TERRACE at the Amanusa Resort. The menu is small listing only six appetizers, three soups and seven main courses. We enjoyed the popular Gai Hor Bai Toey, tender chicken pieces deep fried in pandan leaves, a spicy Tom Yam Goong and the milder Tom Khar Gai, a chicken broth with coconut milk. This was followed by a sensational Red Duck Curry and King Prawns with Chilli and Basil. All dishes are prepared as spicy as you would get them in Thailand, and the service, surroundings and the view over the Nusa Dua golf course and the sea are outstanding. This unique combination is easily worth the rather high prices: around 100,000 Rupiah++ for appetizers and soups, and around 200,000 Rupiah ++ for the main courses. Not really much for a dinner you'll not forget for a long time.

The nearby BUMBU BALI Restaurant (& Cooking School) in Tanjung Benoa adjacent to NUsa Dua, is operated by Heinz von Holzen, the author of the book "The Food of Bali" and former food guru of the Grand Hyatt and Ritz Carlton hotels in Bali. A visit here IS A MUST if you are interested in authentic local cuisine. In beautiful surroundings you can enjoy appetizers such as "Ayam Pelalah" (chicken with chillies and lime), beef, chicken and prawn Satay, or "Jokut Kakul", a tasty snail soup with lemon grass and black pepper. Main dishes include "Ayam Betutu" (roasted chicken in banana leaf), delicious "Siap Mapanggang" (ox tongue in sweet nutmeg sauce), "Satay Lilit" made from minced seafood, and "Ikan Pepes", and grilled fish in banana leaf. You can choose from a range of exotic desserts such as Black Rice Pudding, Coconut Pancakes, etc. Or indulge yourself by ordering the "Balinese Rijsttafel" which consists of 14 different dishes served together with white, yellow, and red rice (even a vegetarian version of this feast is available). You can end your meal with various gourmet coffee preparations or special flavoured Indonesian teas (apple, apricot, black currant, cinnamon, orange, peach, raspberry, strawberry, vanilla, etc). Service is very attentive, and prices (about 120,000 to 200,000 Rupiah per person for a huge meal) are very reasonable for the unique experience. On Fridays there are Balinese dance performances from about 8 p.m. (If you book certain villas through Balivillas.com, you enjoy FREE participation in the popular Balinese cooking classes conducted by Heinz.)

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THE BALI RESTAURANT GUIDE TO UBUD

CAFE LOTUS has been an institution for many years. Located in the center of Ubud between the main street and a large, beautiful lotus pond in front of a temple (designed by the famous artist I Gusti Nyoman Lempad) this pleasant open-air restaurant serves a variety of Italian pasta dishes, some Asian and local specialties such as the Balinese duck 'Bebek Betutu', and a good choice of cakes and fruit juices. Although the prices here are quite steep for Ubud standards, CAFE LOTUS is busy the whole day.

Nearly across the road is CASA LUNA offering a number of Balinese and Mediterranean dishes which look very interesting on the menu but can be a bit disappointing, and a branch of the well-known RYOSHI serving good Sushi, Sashimi and Tempura until midnight at rather low prices.

MURNI'S WARUNG, located next to the Campuan bridge, is another of Ubud's institutions. Built on several levels between the road and the river, this is an excellent place to try the 'Bebek Betutu' (order one day in advance to be sure) and other local specialties. The more elegant BRIDGE CAFE cascades also down over several levels – right opposite on the other side of the river – and offers creative 'Pacific Rim' cuisine i.e. tasty culinary creations with influences from Thailand, India, China and Japan as well as local specialties, salads and vegetarian dishes. Try the Szechuan Pancakes filled with deep fried duck, the Thai Chicken Pizza, or the Chilly Prawns. Very pleasant atmosphere and good service.

Not to be missed is DIRTY DUCK or BEBEK BENGIL in Padang Tegal about one kilometer south of Ubud's main street. Forget their special "Crispy Duck" which is very dry and sometimes rather tough. Their range of other Indonesian and Western dishes, however, is quite tasty, the garden setting very pleasant, and the live background music in the evenings creates a nearly magic atmosphere.

Another of Ubud favorites is ARY'S WARUNG, a stylish side-walk bistro in the center of town with creative oriental/international cuisine and a choice of interesting vegetarian dishes. The Tasting Menu for lunch includes four dishes and one glass of wine for 130,000 or 160,000 Rupiah, the Dinner Tasting Menu six dishes and two glasses of wine for 190,000 or 250,000 Rupiah, always plus tax & service. Expect delicacies such as Lobster Wonton, Tuna Parfait with caviar and Wasabi cream, Seared Sea Scallops, Sauted Green Pepercorn Pate with green papaya salad, Carpaccio of Venison, Steamed Snapper with red chilli butter, Jumbo River Prawns sauted with chilli, garlic and ginger, deboned Roasted Quail, Rack of Lamb with chilli mint sauce, and Roasted Veal Cutlets with Wasabi butter. The desserts are equally creative; try the Durian Créme Brulleé! The wine list offers a good choice of Australian and French wines, and the service is friendly AND professional. ARY'S has become another place for Fine Dining in Ubud.

On the way to Sayan between the Campuan Hotel and the Pita Maha Resort is the rather new INDUS Restaurant operated by the same owner as Casa Luna. Well-spaced tables on two levels offer a beautiful view over the Campuan river valley, the service is very friendly, and they serve a wide range of health food. You can choose Italian pizza, ravioli and fettucini, Middle Eastern Mezze, Chinese spring rolls, Thai Thom Kha Kai soup, and Indonesian nasi campur, gado gado, and even a Balinese "Smoked Duck Feast" for only 90,000 Rupiah for two. There are many seafood and vegetarian dishes, various interesting fresh fruit juices such as apple with mint juice or carrot, spinach, parsley & celery juice (to clean your blood and for detoxification), lassi, herbal teas and special coffees. If all this sounds too healthy, there are also delicious sweets, a (disappointingly) small selection of wines, but an acceptable choice of cocktails.

Evenings you'll meet many foreign residents in NAUGHTY NURI'S Warung on the same road to Sayan. Boston-born Brian, Nuri's husband, buys every Thursday fresh tuna in Benoa, and they serve on Thursday nights delicious tuna Sashimi, tuna steaks, and tuna satay at rock-bottom prices. Daily fare includes various Indonesian dishes, steaks, lamb chops, and large slabs of ribs which are barbecued on a long charcoal grill in front of the place. But better go easy on their excellent Martinis – after a few of these you won't mind the price of about US$4.00 per drink or the somewhat uncomfortable and extremely "local" surroundings, and the next day you might even not remember how you got home or where you've been the night before! Actually — why is Nuri called "naughty"??? Many people asked, but Brian won't tell!

MOZAIC opened in 2001 on Jalan Raya Sanggingan, the road from Campuhan to Sayan, and is run by Franco-American Chef Chris Salans (ex French Laundry in Napa valley). It offers very pleasant out-door and in-door seating, excellent service and attractive presentation of Chris' creative cuisine. The menu changes daily and depends on the availability of fresh ingredients. You can either order a 3-course Gourmet Dinner and choose your favourites from the menu but we recommend to order one of the Chef's Tasting Menus. Each consists of seven courses and there are three choices: either the "Classic" Menu Degustation, a "Vegetarian" or "Experimental" version offering delicious surprises with every single course. The 3-course dinner and all Tasting Menus are equally priced and are at 450,000 Rupiah++ per person (800,000 Rupiah++ including matching wines) a real bargain. If you prefer to bring your own wine, they charge 75,000 Rupiah++ corkage per bottle. On the small but well-chosen wine list you find 16 open wines, and bottles start around 300,000 Rupiah++. We always enjoy the truly outstanding food – probably the best you can find in Indonesia. A meal at MOZAIC is a fine dining experience you won't forget; don't miss it! MOZAIC is closed on Mondays, all other days reservations are required. Please call 975-768.

LAMAK Restaurant & Bar is another of Ubud's best eateries. It was opened in February 2002 and is located on Monkey Forest Road a bit South of the soccer field next to SAI SAI bar. The quite unique design is by Made Wijaya (Australian Michael White), and the restaurant is operated by the German Chef Roland Lickert. The tempting menus (different for lunch and dinner) include Asian, international and vegetarian dishes such as Seaweed Salad with Balinese Satay Lilit, various fried noodles with Spiced Szechuan Chicken, with Asian Greens and Glazed Tofu, or with Black Bean Fish, Stir-fried Scallops on Green Tea Noodles, and Bruschetta with Salmon Tartar. There is an great Shitake Mushroom Cappuccino soup and a unique Balinese Bouillabaisse, and for your main course Crispy Salmon, Balsamic Glazed Beef Steak, Pancetta-wrapped Pork Fillet, Lamb Cutlets, Duck Breast with Red Pepper Pesto, and Seafood Pasta. Delicious sweets include Orange & Ginger Brulee, Fried Forest Berry Ice Cream on Baileys Cream, and a Chilled Pina Colada Soufflé. Gourmets may be impressed, wine lovers will certainly be delighted: you can choose from 8 wines by the glass from 22,000 to 27,000 Rupiah and from nearly 50 bottled wines from France, Italy, Australia, and California starting at 95,000 Rupiah. (You can buy all wines to take out at prices about 30% lower which might make LAMAK Ubud's best bottle shop.) There is also a choice of Cuban cigars. The reasonable prices for food and wine help to relax in the open-air lounge and cocktail bar downstairs, on the upstairs terrace or in the air-conditioned dining room on the upper floor. LAMAK is open every day from 11:00 in the morning to 11:00 p.m. Roland runs also WARUNG ENAK in Pengosekan (south of Ubud) where he serves tasty specialties from Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, Kalimantan, Lombok, Bali and other islands of Indonesia in pleasant surroundings and at reasonable prices.

Other restaurants recommended by foreign residents and recent visitors are PESTO CAFE, Jalan Raya Campuhan, for tasty Indonesian dishes and international snacks at low prices, AASHIANA at Jalan Monkey Forest 129X for over 300 excellent Indian AND (surprise) Chinese specialties from Szechuan, Canton, Shanghai and Beijing, TERAZO, Jalan Suweta just North of the Royal Palace, and the CINTA GRILL on Monkey Forest Road for trendy fusion cuisine, BATAN WARU (Western and Indonesian Brasserie type food), CAFE DES ARTISTES, Jalan Bisma 9X, for Belgium cuisine and some Indonesian and Thai dishes at low prices, GAJAH BIRU for authentic Indian cuisine, GAYA for simple Italian dishes, located above the gallery with the same name in Sayan, the KOKOKAN CLUB in Pengosekan for tasty Thai dishes, COFFEE & SILVER on Jalan Monkeu Forest for breakfast, brunch and all-day dining with tasty snacks, tapas and international mains and an interesting children's menu, INDIAN DELITES, THREE MONKEYS, KAMPUNG KAFE, and TEPI SAWAH.

Selamat Makan !